Clubmaking Tip for May 22, 2007 from Midwest Golf Tuesday, May 22, 2007
Removing Iron Heads from Steel Shafts
Leverage Block and Pro Shaft Clamp
The Pro Shaft Clamp (A.) and the Leverage Block (B.) are used in unison to remove iron heads from steel shafts. No matter how tight the fit between the hosel and the shaft this pair of tools will deliver success every time. When a steel-shafted iron comes in to the shop for shaft removal, I choose between two methods for shaft removal. One is where I lock the head in the vise, heat the hosel and rotate the shaft free by twisting the grip end of the shaft. When I think the iron head will be difficult to remove because of the tight fit between the shaft and head (tapered shafts) I employ the Leverage Block and the Pro Shaft Clamp to do the work of twisting the head free from the shaft.
Remove all vise pads from the vise. Place the center of the three slots of the Pro Shaft Clamp around the iron shaft roughly 2 inches from the top of the hosel. Lock the Pro Shaft Clamp in the vise making sure the teeth of the vise are positioned in line with the shaft. This creates the tightest pressure available and prevents the shaft from slipping when the head is eventually turned. This is one of the keys to making these two tools work. Heat the hosel of the iron with a propane torch for about 15 seconds with a 2-inch flame. Take the Leverage Block and hold the handle with one hand and the tines with the other. Place the iron head between the two tines and twist the head the direction of the face. Using only one hand on the leverage block handle will likely exert side pressure on the shaft and may cause shaft breakage. When used properly the shaft should remain still and only the head should twist. If the shaft twists in the Pro Shaft Clamp tighten the vise by using the Leverage Block on the vise handle. If more heat is necessary, use a 2-inch flame for 6 full seconds. Once the head is loose, grab it with a gloved hand and clean the hosel.
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posted by Brandon Schenz @ 11:01 AM,
